If anyone's having problems with their cars, I'm willing to do light repairs, oil changes, tire rotations etc
Since this is just something i'm doing on the side, I'll work cheaply (rates vary on the Repair/Service)
Oil Change is $25.00 if you provide your own oil and filter (Just add the cost of them if not :P ) Also includes a multi-point inspection!
Tire rotation with complimentary Suspension/Steering/Brake System Inspection for $25.00
Brake inspection-$20.00
Tire Repair-$15.00
Brake repair/replacement starting at $40.00
Engine Diagnostics/Troubleshooting/Repair $20.00/Hour
Exhaust System Replacement starting at $20.00
Interior work charge based on problem (Window Regulators, Heater Fans, Dashboard etc
Can't think of anything else off of the top of my head, but if's there's something wrong with your ride, PM me and we'll get it taken care of ;)
These rates are a fraction of what you would pay in a shop, and yes, I am licensed ;)
Cheers
~Tor~
(Grease-Dawg)
..and I JUST went to Mr. Lube to get my car's oil changed on my way home from work today! D: Talk about timing. :(
Sweet prices. Haha why would I do my own work when you do it so cheap. I can just sit back and watch!
I'll definitely keep you in mind the next time i need something car related! :D
Haha, I would take you up on that for one thing, though im not sure if you would consider replacing a manual fuel pump on a big ford Econoline "light work" X3
: Purplexity May 25, 2011, 08:53:43 -06:00
Sweet prices. Haha why would I do my own work when you do it so cheap. I can just sit back and watch!
Not you, your just lazy! I'm doing this for ppl in need! XD
: Drake Wingfire May 25, 2011, 01:49:50 -06:00
Haha, I would take you up on that for one thing, though im not sure if you would consider replacing a manual fuel pump on a big ford Econoline "light work" X3
Lol, yea, depends if its in the tank or mounted elsewhere, but your on the isle anyway right? lol
Actually, kind of something unrelated - how good are you at troubleshooting electrical gremlins? ;) I'm pretty sure the wire that carries the ignition signal to my car's stereo is corroded/loose/flaky; the stereo likes to turn on and off going over bumps/around corners, but it never loses the time or where it was in the song (which is why I'm thinking ignition signal and not power). It's a bit of a pain in the ass to take apart and pull the deck assembly out, but I have a feeling the issue might even be further back hidden away somewhere towards the steering column. :(
yea, i'm not a fan of interior electrical, but i can have a look for sure ;)
: Torwin May 25, 2011, 02:15:22 -06:00
yea, i'm not a fan of interior electrical, but i can have a look for sure ;)
Alright - once I get paid next week I'll let you know. :)
: Torwin May 25, 2011, 02:01:46 -06:00
Not you, your just lazy! I'm doing this for ppl in need! XD
Lazy?
Not very likely as I do it for a living.
Why would I do it when you're doing it so cheap?
It's a good thing you're doing for sure! The door rates these days are pretty high and it's expensive to have anything done. It's good to give back to the community.
: Kithop May 25, 2011, 02:06:54 -06:00
Actually, kind of something unrelated - how good are you at troubleshooting electrical gremlins? ;) I'm pretty sure the wire that carries the ignition signal to my car's stereo is corroded/loose/flaky; the stereo likes to turn on and off going over bumps/around corners, but it never loses the time or where it was in the song (which is why I'm thinking ignition signal and not power). It's a bit of a pain in the ass to take apart and pull the deck assembly out, but I have a feeling the issue might even be further back hidden away somewhere towards the steering column. :(
Easy fix.
Is it an aftermarket deck or the stock one?
You're right as well. If the clock holds time the BATT + connection should be fine.
If if cuts out over bumps and rough roads then it could be the IGN +. It also could be the deck itself. Possibly something on the printed circuit board.
Easy way to check this is to remove the deck, run a new IGN + wire from the distribution panel fused of course as close to the distribution panel as possible.
Before doing that, remove the connector to the rear of the deck and make sure the terminals don't look like they have been opened up to much and not getting good connectivity by being loose. Then it could just be as easy as replacing a few terminals.
Also there is a product called contact enhancer. I've used this lots and it works great for keeping out corrosion and dust and preventing good connectivity.
If it was shorting out to ground it would have burnt the fuse already. So it does sound like a loose connection somewhere. Just make sure all your fuses in your fuse panel are firmly seated.
My advice is always free! Unless I'm at work !
Once I get my licence and a car, and if it has any problems, I will defiantly shoot you a message. c:
: Torwin May 25, 2011, 02:01:46 -06:00
Not you, your just lazy! I'm doing this for ppl in need! XD
Lol, yea, depends if its in the tank or mounted elsewhere, but your on the isle anyway right? lol
Yeah still on the island haha ^.=.^; pump is actually engine mounted since it works off a lobe on the cam shaft to move the pump arm.
: Drake Wingfire May 26, 2011, 12:20:53 -06:00
Yeah still on the island haha ^.=.^; pump is actually engine mounted since it works off a lobe on the cam shaft to move the pump arm.
So your van has a mechanical fuel pump off of the front of the engine on the drivers side?
You can change that yourself pretty easy with very few tools. Most likely you will have to do it from underneath.
2 bolts and 2-3 fuel lines. don't mix them up!!
The arm that rides on the camshaft lobe isn't timed or anything just don't force it together and make sure to dip the arm in some clean engine oil before you install.
The torque for the bolts will be around 144 inch pounds or 12 foot pounds. or snug the bolts up and then 1/2 a turn roughly. If its just a paper gasket some seepage can be normal until the gasket swells up from the oil.
A shop shouldn't charge more then an hour to do this unless they run into any other problems.
Totally agree, doesn't sound too hard, just take your time, if you need any advice, we'll be here ;)
: Purplexity May 28, 2011, 01:09:58 -06:00
So your van has a mechanical fuel pump off of the front of the engine on the drivers side?
You can change that yourself pretty easy with very few tools. Most likely you will have to do it from underneath.
2 bolts and 2-3 fuel lines. don't mix them up!!
The arm that rides on the camshaft lobe isn't timed or anything just don't force it together and make sure to dip the arm in some clean engine oil before you install.
The torque for the bolts will be around 144 inch pounds or 12 foot pounds. or snug the bolts up and then 1/2 a turn roughly. If its just a paper gasket some seepage can be normal until the gasket swells up from the oil.
A shop shouldn't charge more then an hour to do this unless they run into any other problems.
Yeah that's exactly what she has. I think I could reach it from under easy enough as those old vans do sit pretty damn high.
: Drake Wingfire May 30, 2011, 12:30:20 -06:00
Yeah that's exactly what she has. I think I could reach it from under easy enough as those old vans do sit pretty damn high.
If you use a flashlight make sure its not an incandescent blub or something that could catch the fuel on fire.
Of course everyone knows gasoline has a low flash point but just a word of warning to be careful!
Anyone know where I can get tires for my car for cheap? Torwin has been too busy lately....
k, i need help replacing the window motor in my car... >.> By monday... Any takers? :\ I don't really have the money to take it in to a shop, but I'll pay you what I can.
hey guys. We're having a couple of problems with our car we'd like to get checked out if you're available. Pm me for details if you like :)
The Earliest I could have a look at it is Thursday,
What is the Year, Make and Model of the car?
List me some of the problems, apart from the window motor.
Cheers
~Tor~
I was actually able to get the window motor fixed (I needed it done for my road test a few months back). But right now I'm having trouble changing the left rear blinker, which has gone out, and one of the door jamb switches is busted so it constantly thinks one of the doors is open and I have no idea which one. Also the front right wheel has started squeaking.
It's 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier.